One of the oldest pubs in England is ‘Ye Olde Trip to Jerusalem’. The name captures how important a journey to the Holy Land was to Christians in years gone by. An expedition from England to the Middle East was, in the Middle Ages, a daunting and dangerous, and extremely lengthy, undertaking. One might reflect on how things have changed – in some ways, not much.
I have long wanted to visit Jerusalem, more because of my fascination with history than for spiritual reasons. Before we met, my wife, Viv, had been on a pilgrimage to Jerusalem organised by a Christian group. So, when in October 2023, we had the opportunity to visit the Eastern Mediterranean on a cruise, we were both excited. I would finally get to go to Jerusalem, and Viv would see the pyramids (I’d already seen them on a trip to Egypt).
As we were guided on foot through the city, I was immediately impressed by the sights – including an orthodox Jewish busker, wearing all the garb, who played some very decent Blues on an electric guitar! Entering the Church of the Holy Sepulchre, which is historically Christianity’s most sacred place, I was excited. This church is supposedly on the site of Golgotha, where Jesus was crucified, and also the empty tomb: so it encompasses the scenes of both Christ’s death and resurrection.
Sadly I was distinctly underwhelmed by the tawdry decorations. The vibe was of a tourist attraction rather than a place of worship, let alone a sacred site. My streak of Puritanism, which is never very far below the surface, combined with my professional cynicism meant I was disappointed. The one place that did move me was an unadorned rock tomb, slightly off the beaten track, which no one has ever claimed was Jesus’ burial place. It was quiet in there, and we had a chance to reflect.
Later we went to the Wailing Wall, where we had a good view over the Temple Mount. Something strange happened to me there. My cynicism absolutely melted, and I felt – well, something that is difficult to explain. Thanks to the Holy Spirit, I had a feeling of awe, peace and reverence, that I have only experienced once before, at Hagia Sophia in Istanbul, a story for another time, perhaps. Looking at the place where Jesus once walked, where so many critical moments in the Old and New Testaments took place, was a truly spiritual experience – remarkable, given my reaction to the Church of the Holy Sepulchre. We eventually had to leave, so I tore myself away and we got back on to our coach, heading for lunch in a hotel.
I look back at my trip to Jerusalem as an extraordinary and humbling experience, that lives with me still. Two days later, while we were flying home, the dreadful events of 7th October 2023 took place. I pray that one day we will be able to return to Israel. – Gary Sheffield
This article originally appeared in the St John’s Messenger. If you would like to discuss contributing a future article please contact news@valebenefice.org.uk.
